31 March, 2020

Pruning Fruit Trees

The brief version of Margaret Siri's series on the ABC (circa 2010) about pruning fruit trees: Gardening Online With Margaret Siri

Apricots
Prune back to the fruiting spur
Fruiting spur is usually a trio of buds
Check for end fruiting spurs on softer branches
Prune dead material
Bring down height of tree so fruit can be reached, remove crossover branches in the middle - trim back to a fruiting spur, encourage fruiting spurs to grow thicker by having them at the end.
Spray with lime sulphur after

Peach & Nectarine
Bring the height down, trim off dead and dying
Fruiting spurs have multiple buds (2 or 3)
Trim back to a fruiting spur (check for multiple spurs)
Spray with lime sulphur after pruning (before bud swell)

Apples
Fruiting spur on an apple is pretty thin and not so clumped.
Cut just behind a growth spur, forming a short stub for the fruit to appear
Thin out shoots that are too near to the trunk, and any little pieces that have died.
Cut back to a stub, control heigh and growth, clear centre of tree, and encourage fruiting spurs to form each year rather than growth.

Japanese Plums - Blood and Golden
Try to promote new growth each year.
Small shoots are the fruiting spurs. Double and triple buds are fruiting buds.
New growth has small growth buds. To encourage growth, cut ahead of growth buds in direction to grow.
To encourage fruiting, cut behind growth buds.
Take off old wood to encourage new wood.

21 March, 2020

Planting in a time of coronavirus

PANIC! AT THE SUPERMARKET!

We've all seen the empty shelves. Mostly drygoods, but also some things run out faster than others. It kicks off something in our brains and a part of us goes into 'worry mode'. The comforts of our existence rest on a very narrow edge of 'normality' and if that 'normality' falls through, what then? How do we ensure food security?

Now, let's be honest. Very few people are going to be capable of producing as much food as they and their family need to survive. Remember the feudalist concept of peasantry? It took a peasant all day, every day, year in, year out, to provide enough food for themselves and their overlords. Granted, some of that might have been because their overlords were nasty pieces of work, but some of it was because working the soil is HARD. The curse of Adam in Genesis 3 is that Adam will work the soil and it will be labourious and difficult. And even farmers - who work off the economies of scale and the advantages of machinery, GMO, and pesticides - can tell you that working the land is no picnic today.

That doesn't mean you shouldn't grow anything. Don't be so absolutist! A little bit here and a little bit there, and you will appreciate both what it takes to put that perfect green lettuce, those round red tomatoes, those huge fragrant onions, and that big moist avocado into your salad, as well as that we have this kind of food to excess in our societies.

But where do you start?

1. start with what you already eat

If you don't eat zucchini, don't plant a dozen plants. If you hate tomatoes, don't sow tomato seeds! If you dislike kale don't think you're going to love it just because you grow it! Start with the vegies that you're already eating.

I mean, you're probably screwed if all you eat is, say, apples. You need low-chill ones in Sydney and the right microclimate can certainly help, but it's a bit more effort than you should probably start with.

2. pick the vegies that are easiest to grow

Salad greens, Asian stir-fry greens, spinaches and swiss chard and mustard leaves, sweet potato vines (mostly for the leaves with bonus tubers). All of them just need a good steady water source which you can probably give them even in hot, dry weather from the water that you use to rinse your vegies, or the warm-up water caught in a bucket from your shower, or the runoff from your roof.

We're living on the 2nd driest continent on Earth (but the 1st is Antarctica, which is honestly a category all its own) so we need to be more circumspect with water usage and wastage. And growing food requires steady watering. You need to work out where that water is coming from.

3. pick vegies that are bad value for money when you buy them in the shops

Herbs. ALL THE HERBS. Because unless you're making pesto, half the time you only want a few sprigs of it. Rosemary, coriander, basil, thyme, parsley, sage. Coriander and basil are annuals - they need re-seeding every year, but the others are pretty much perennials that will grow back and grow back and grow back. Have a permanent part of the garden that's dedicated to herbs, and then sow the annuals (lettuces, Asian greens, etc) between them.

4. Try growing 'perennials' - re-seasonal plants

Perennials are ones that keep growing back season after season. See the herbs section above - rosemary, sage, thyme, parsley. There are perennial spinaches, and some kales and lettuces can be grown perennially so long as they are kept watered. Believe it or not you can grow garlic as a perennial - just so long as you don't mind the garlic being the leafy greens rather than the white bulb (they still taste pretty much the same).

But what should I grow RIGHT NOW in March 2020 with social separation looming and a desire to build a garden?

If you're in Sydney, it's the perfect time to grow any of the following:
spring onions
lettuces, spinaches, rocket
Asian greens
swiss chard/silverbeet
radishes
peas
broad beans
brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflowers, brussel sprouts)

For spring onions to radishes, the soil doesn't have to be fantastic. Just sow in rows and keep watered - particularly the leafy greens.

For peas and broad beans, the soil doesn't have to be particularly rich, although it helps if you want a crop.

For brassicas, they're hungry beasts; not as hungry as corn, maybe, but they still like a good feeding.

But in all seriousness, just get a pot and start growing things. The sooner you start, the sooner you'll get a crop. And right now, we can all do with a crop...

15 March, 2020

Six months in Canberra

Just got word that I'll be working in Canberra for at least the next six months. (That is, if the coronavirus doesn't halt everything, including hiring.)

This presents a dilemma regarding maintenance of the garden.

With the watering system in, anything growing in the garden beds could survive well enough. But the question of what to plant through the winter is different. I'd like to grow things for spring eating, and at some point I'll have to come back and do a massive prune of the trees. April-May for the apricot and cherry, July for the stone fruits, and August for the others - but, yeah, getting the sister to eat what's growing? That's a whole other level of difficult.

So.

I'll probably sit the chickens on each bed for 6 weeks one by one to clear the bed, then plant them out with either winterveg or green manure. I suspect Green manures are going to be a big thing this winter.

Plum-Stone
Currently: tomatoes and other things, including cotton (cotton will be moved to perennial bed. Apparently they grow best on a two year cycle.)
Chooks: April
Next: chooks, then broccoli and peas, or else maybe onions or leeks.
Notes: was broad beans last year, might do green manures next. I planted a bunch of broccoli seedlings this morning, more as a "let's see how they do". I had an excess of the ones I'm gently shepherding towards maturity, so these are the rejects, and they might grow enough to provide a leafy green munch.

Apple-Crepe
Currently: corn, bush beans, eggplants, some leafy greens
Chooks: June
Next: green manures through remainder of winter, lettuces when spring comes.

Crepe-Apricot
Currently: 1 corn (with three cobs!), cucumbers, beans (for drying)
Chooks: March, right before Garden Trail for demonstration purposes. Lots of leaf litter and chook poop to make a hot compost.
Next: onions? carrots? peas? (Onions and peas don't go together) Onions and carrots would need some decently fine and loose soil. Maybe I should throw some builder's sand in there while the chooks are down to help fine it up?

Apricot-Avo
Currently: onions, leafy greens, zucchini/pumpkin, beans (for drying)
Chooks: May
Next: broccoli and peas and broad beans?

Avo-Shed
Currently: tomatillo, pumpkin, beans
Chooks: August
Next: broccoli? Lettuces? leafy greens?
Notes: this is the bed that gets the most sun through winter

Bathtub
Presently has carrots; I might try parsnips again. I could do potatoes in one of the other beds if I provide enough growing medium for it: they're slow and not very productive, but they'll keep the ground occupied.
Next: onions, leeks, parsnips, garlic

Wicking Bed
Currently: Leafy greens, tomatoes, eggplants, radishes, silverbeet
Next: onions, carrots, leeks, garlic

Vegepod
Currently: beans, loofah, curcubit, tomatoes
Next: onions, carrots, leeks

Okay, I've been mulling over this for a week. I need to post it now.

13 March, 2020